What can you do with 1 pint of sour cherries?
Sour cherries showed up at the farmers market here two weeks ago, which is at least a month earlier than Washingtonians typically see them. As I walked around with a four-pint flat, I must have been stopped a half dozen times: Where'd you get those?
They are, after all, be-still-my-heart beautiful. They almost seem to glow. Sour cherries are true to their name, flavorwise, and one of the few fresh fruits you won’t find in grocery stores, due to their delicate constitutions and fleeting availability.
(Fun fact: When exposed to light — even the amount that emanates from a bulb in the refrigerator — pitted sour cherries will discolor or darken. So keep them under opaque wraps.)
The takeaway: You must grab those sour cherries while you can. And just like the hawker says on TV: Supplies are limited. Three of my pints went into a pie; the fourth presented a quandary. Stockpile in the freezer or find the best use for two cups' worth? There are some fine sour cherry recipes in our Recipe Finder; see the links at the end of this file.
I opted for using the last pint right away, seeking advice from three pros. We’re trying these over the weekend. How ’bout you?
●Buttercream Bakeshop owner Tiffany MacIsaac would make Sour Cherry Crumb Bars :
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Combine 2 cups pitted, coarsely chopped sour cherries, 1 cup cherry jam, 1/2 cup sugar, 4 teaspoons cornstarch and an optional 2 teaspoons peeled, freshly grated ginger root in a mixing bowl; let it sit while you assemble the crust/crumble.
In another bowl, combine 3 cups flour, 1 cup sugar, 1 teaspoon baking powder, a pinch of salt and the finely grated zest of 2 limes. Quickly work in 16 tablespoons (that’s 2 sticks) chilled, unsalted butter cut into cubes, to form a crumbly dough, then add 1 large egg and mix until incorporated.
Grease a quarter-size baking sheet (roughly 9 by 13 inches) with cooking oil spray, then line it with parchment paper. Press half the dough into the pan, then spread the cherry mixture over it. Crumble the remaining dough on top. Bake in a 350-degree oven for 30 to 40 minutes, until golden brown on top. Cool before cutting into twelve 3-inch bars.
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●Schlow Restaurant Group executive pastry chef Alex Levin suggests a riff on cherries jubilee:
Combine 8 tablespoons unsalted butter with 2/3 cup sugar in a saucepan over medium heat until the sugar has dissolved, then add your 2 cups pitted sour cherries along with 2 cups pitted Bing cherries. Reduce the heat to low; cook until the berries have softened a bit, then stir in 1/3 cup cherry brandy. If you’re feeling brave, flambé what’s in the pan (bring a lighted match or flame within about an inch of the mixture so it will catch and burn briefly). Serve over ice cream.
●Christianne Ricchi, owner of I Ricchi in Dupont Circle, offers a boozy option as well — ciliegie al brandy, or brandied cherries:
Share this articleShareUse a damp paper towel to wipe clean 2 cups of unpitted sour cherries; do not submerge them in water. Cut down the stems to 1/4 inch. Distribute them among a several pint jars, then sprinkle in a total of 3/4 cup sugar among them. Insert a short cinnamon stick in each one, add a few whole cloves to each one and an optional vanilla bean in each one. Fill with enough brandy or cognac or vodka or grappa so the fruit is submerged. Seal well, then shake until the sugar has dissolved.
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Store in a darkened pantry for about 2 months (the waiting is the hardest part, Ricchi says), shaking each jar a few times during that period to help infuse the flavors. Serve them on their own, or over gelato or spongecake. The sealed jars are good for up to 1 year at room temperature.
Top recipes of the week
Readers' most-viewed recipes online have a certain hurry-up-summer vibe. And the doughnuts are only fitting, this being National Doughnut Day:
1. Grilled Corn Four Ways. Husk-on or naked, smoked or wrapped in foil.
2. Warm Chickpea Smash With Skillet Greens. A #WeeknightVegetarian meal, from Kim O'Donnel's new "PNW Veg" cookbook.
3. Grilled Scallops With Lemon-Herb Drizzle. Ellie Krieger knows how to keep them moist and flavorful.
4. Vanilla-Glazed Brioche Doughnuts. Check out the annotated recipe here, with helpful tips and GIFs.
5. Horseradish Deviled Eggs. Perhaps the easiest in our six-way sampler.
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